Introduction:
You might have heard of the Nakasendo Trail, but how many have actually walked it? I must admit, I initially thought, “Isn’t it just a road from the Edo period? Probably for history buffs.” But once I started walking, I realized… it’s packed with drama! It’s rare to find a place where you can literally walk through time.
Why “Post Town Hopping” is Recommended:
Japan boasts many historical routes, but the Nakasendo stands out. Stretching from Edo to Kyoto, it had 69 post towns. While the Tōkaidō runs along the coast, the Nakasendo traverses mountainous paths, offering rich and varied landscapes.
I visited three renowned post towns in the Kiso region: Magome-juku, Tsumago-juku, and Narai-juku. Each has its unique charm. These towns aren’t just Instagram-worthy; they truly offer a “time travel” experience.
Magome-juku: Beauty of Slopes and Literary Aroma
Located in Gifu Prefecture’s mountainous area, Magome-juku is known for its cobblestone slopes. Walking here feels like stepping back into the Edo period. It’s also the hometown of author Shimazaki Tōson, and the world of his novel “Yoake Mae” seems to come alive here. What impressed me most was the authenticity of the shops. The Gohei-mochi and soba were meticulously prepared, and honestly, I was moved to tears by the Gohei-mochi alone.
Tsumago-juku: A Completely Preserved Post Town
Next, I visited Tsumago-juku in Nagano Prefecture. This town was Japan’s first to attempt preserving an entire post town. In the 1960s, residents initiated a preservation movement, and learning about their efforts was truly touching. The old houses and inns have been renovated into stylish accommodations, blending tradition with modernity.
Narai-juku: The Longest Post Town Isn’t Just About Length
Known as the longest post town, Narai-juku is indeed lengthy! But more than its length, it boasts a variety of shops selling crafts and lacquerware. One dish I highly recommend is “Toji Soba.” Despite being a hot noodle dish, it’s perfect even in early summer. I once had it, and a fellow traveler remarked, “I should’ve ordered the Toji Soba too.”
Post Towns: More Than Just Places to Stay
The post towns of the Nakasendo weren’t merely places to rest.
- Honjin: Lodgings for high-ranking officials like shoguns and feudal lords.
- Waki-honjin: Secondary accommodations when the Honjin was full.
- Tōya-ba: Centers for arranging horses and other logistics.
These were the “infrastructure” of the Edo period, akin to modern-day service areas, hotels, and logistics centers combined.
Cultural Heritage of the Nakasendo:
After the Showa era, many post towns’ landscapes began to fade. However, in the Kiso region, residents took action to preserve them. Their efforts have maintained the towns’ beauty. What’s remarkable is that these aren’t just preserved sites; they’re “living towns.”
Additionally, signboards are multilingual, and English guide maps are available, making it traveler-friendly. During my visit, I walked alongside a couple from Germany.
Conclusion: The Luxury of Walking Through History
The most profound realization from this journey was that it’s not just about “learning history” but about “walking through history.” The Nakasendo isn’t overly commercialized, allowing you to feel the “lives of people” from the past.
If you’re planning a trip, I highly recommend experiencing the Nakasendo as a walking journey. The slopes and paths might be challenging, but they offer a genuine “Edo-period traveler” experience.
If this article was helpful, please share your thoughts and experiences. Travel insights are best when shared!